October 28, 2009

dallas dhu is nowhere near dallas tx

10/28/09

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Hey! I got my first "Fare" piece in November's issue of SAVEUR Magazine, something that has ended up being quite a lovely surprise, here at the end of a very long season of writing in a completely different field. To read my article, either pick up a copy of the gorgeous magazine itself, or read a version here.

It's an idea I've had for a while, and in fact, some of you were present for its inception: a taste test of different single-malt scotches from distilleries that no longer exist. There's something awesome about "spirits from a ghost distillery" that turned me on, and in fact, there are collectors that specialize in scotch from silent stills.

Until the holidays, when (with the help of Steven Garrity) I plan to launch my Scotchtastic blog, I'll put a few things here about whisky from ghost distilleries you should try if you ever have the chance:

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Port Ellen - Hard to go wrong with this peaty, intense Islay malt, but the "official releases" - particularly the 27-year-old from 1978 - is a smoky, explosive treat.
 
 
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Rosebank - Like many "lowland" whiskies, you have to be careful. It can be either a subtle, heathery masterpiece, or a spirity, grassy bore. Old Malt Cask's bottling of a 22-year-old from 1980 is a high-wire act of sugary perfection.
 
 
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Convalmore - This dark-hued Speysider can put some Macallans to shame. Try the Rare Malts 24-year-old; the nose, swear to God, is Starburst candy (particularly strawberry), but on the palate you've got wood esters, dark teas and even a hint of mint. It almost feels carbonated. Stunning.
 
 
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Brora - Perhaps the most-mourned distillery, the 30-year-old official bottling is probably the best whisky in the world outside an auction. The nose, the palate, the finish... wafting peat, complicated sugars, a play with rising and falling action. Four seasons in one dram, and not to be missed.

Oh, and thanks Dana!

Posted by Ian Williams at October 28, 2009 11:57 PM
Comments
Posted by: jen at October 29, 2009 4:22 AM

how cool. i wonder if i can find a copy at my independent bookseller in okc.

Posted by: jen at October 29, 2009 4:24 AM

ok - i visited the site. is it just on line. i can't believe that one gourmet magazine went under. newspapers down 11 percent last month...i mean, can they drop any further and still exist?

Posted by: Anne at October 29, 2009 5:18 AM

Hmmm, I forgot to say in yesterday's food comments that Scotch makes me want to barf. But I'm happy for the pleasure you take in these carefully crafted libations, Ian.

Posted by: herman at October 29, 2009 6:16 AM

Interesting idea, ghost malt. However I guess the fee for this piece was dwarfed by the opportunity to taste these rare whiskies?

Posted by: Sean at October 29, 2009 6:34 AM

I could read your articles on scotch all day. I love it when a good writer finds a subject that they can approach passionately, but still rationally. This is fantastic.

Posted by: Megan at October 29, 2009 7:04 AM

I can't read about good Scotch. It's one of the few things I truly miss from my drinking days.

Posted by: Salem at October 29, 2009 7:15 AM

Jenn, subscribe online. Saveur and Cooks Illustrated are the best ever, year in and year out. Saveur is the food magazine for your library.

Ian, you know I share your love of Scotch, but I envy your palette. I can have a goose bump, teary eyed, love affair moment with a new favorite Scotch, and be certain that I am getting a third of your experience from the same dram.

Posted by: tregen at October 29, 2009 9:08 AM

Hey! I actually subscribe to this magazine and read the article. Never thought to actually look to see who the author was. Congratulations and great article.

Salem,

I actually keep the old magazines on my bookshelf.

Posted by: CM at October 29, 2009 9:27 AM

Congrats! What talent you have to be able to write about your passions and infuse everyone with the same spirit (so to speak!)

Posted by: Nick at October 30, 2009 2:49 AM

Great article Ian - I still tell people about the scotch tasting at Zap that included the Rosebank above. You've made all of silverorange scotch fans (seriously, group get-togethers involve testing out different single malt scotches).

Posted by: Lars at October 31, 2009 9:39 AM

hey ee-buddy,
This may be old news to the scotch hounds here, but scientists have announced they have found Ernest Shackleton's whisky buried under his house at the South Pole.

http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/commerce/091030/shackletons-whisky-found

Does anybody know what kind of style whisky this is? I'm not much of a whisky drinker, but I would like to know what appealed to Shackleton, one of the most bad-assed heros of all time.

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